Wagyu, historic for its melt-in-your-rima oris texture and heavy marbling, is the well-nigh expensive beef in the earth, carrying a cost tag of hundreds of dollars per pound. Just Japanese Wagyu's astronomical cost point isn't the merely thing that'due south controversial about information technology.

Hither's a #knowledgedart to consider: No i in the United states of america ate true Japanese Wagyu earlier 2012. An import ban on Japanese beefiness ensured that those $30 "Kobe sliders" and that $150 "Wagyu steak" yous bought were plain old Angus or, at best, domestic Wagyu, the American-bred descendants of Japanese cattle.

In fact, the myths surrounding Wagyu production—i.e., cows getting pampered with massages while being fed beer and sake—are and then pervasive that restaurants have leveraged the beef'southward posh reputation for their ain benefit, successfully scamming thousands of unwitting customers by passing off ordinary steak every bit the real thing.

At present that Japanese Wagyu is available—albeit in express quantities—it'due south time to parse out the b.s. and get to the bottom of what makes this product so prized by the nutrient world.Hither, we debunk some of the most pervasive myths that stand between you and existent Wagyu, with assist from a panel of experts:

minaMichael Mina, Michelin starred and James Bristles Honour-winning chef; founder of the Mina Group of restaurants. (@chefmichaelmina)

chinGerald Chin, Executive chef at STRIPSTEAK Las Vegas, 2008 Rising Star Chef (@chefgeraldchin)

jpbAndy Moran, Director at Nihon Premium Beef, a specialty butcher store in New York Metropolis that sells both imported Japanese Wagyu and domestic Wagyu raised on its own farm in Oregon.


Myth: Kobe and Wagyu beef are the same matter.

kobe
The facts:
In the U.South., the divergence betwixt the two is often obscured. Wagyu literally ways "Japanese moo-cow," and it refers to four native breeds: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Shorthorn, and Japanese Polled. Kobe, on the other hand, is an appellation similar Champagne or prosciutto di Parma. Beefiness labeled "Kobe" must come from Tajima-Gyu cattle that have been born, raised, and slaughtered in the Hyōgo prefecture, of which Kobe is the uppercase. Kobe beef is discipline to a rigorous grading policy that includes measures of fat-marbling ratio, gross weight of beef, and overall meat quality.

Chin says: "The reply is yeah and no. All Kobe is Wagyu, merely not all Wagyu is Kobe. Wagyu ways Japanese beef. You tin't call something Kobe unless it'due south certified from the region in Japan. If you call the other Wagyus Kobe, it's pretty much similar calling California sparkling wine Champagne." (Photo: Flickr/Japanexperterna.se)


Myth: Cattle for Wagyu beefiness get massages, are fed beer, and mind to classical music.


The facts: There are strict standards for raising Wagyu, but they don't include a mandate for boozed-up or blissed-out cows. Some farmers massage their cows because farmland is in short supply in Nihon, meaning the cattle tin't roam as freely as they should. Other farmers may massage their cows' muscles during winter, when they are prone to cramping from the common cold. While it's overnice to believe in altruistic farmers, the fact is that tender cows atomic number 82 to tender beefiness. And the diet of beer? Information technology's not standard, though some farmers may feed the cows beer to increase their appetites, and thus their levels of fatty.

Chin says: "These are working cattle. Back in the old days, they used to go out in the field and work actually difficult. The conditions was super cold, so the animals would go back to the pen, and their joints used to literally seize up, like arthritis. The farmers used to pound on the cows so that when they went back out into the field, their joints weren't tight. That's kind of where the massage myth came from."

Moran says: "As far equally the beer and massages become, I've heard numerous stories. The 1 that makes the most sense to me is that parts of Nihon are very rocky. The cattle are given beer to keep them happy and stress-gratis. The massages are given to proceed the animals from cramping. At present I can't say if that's fact or fiction, only drunk cows getting a massage walking effectually on mountains is a visual I'm fine with."


Myth: You tin't purchase authentic Japanese Wagyu beef in this land.

pure
The facts: You lot can, just only as of 2012. Before 2009, the slaughterhouses in Nihon where Wagyu was processed had not been certified for export past the USDA. Between 2009 and 2012, there was a U.South. ban on the importation of Japanese beef to protect against Pes and Mouth Disease. Fifty-fifty with the ban lifted, the quantities of Japanese Wagyu beefiness being shipped into the U.Southward. today are still extremely small.

Mina says: "Because of the ban, we couldn't get [Wagyu] at all [before 2009]. Then there were but about four cuts that we could get for a long time. But that seems to exist loosening up likewise, and Japanese Wagyu isn't uncommon anymore."

Moran: "When nosotros opened in 2009, no one could bring in Wagyu, so nosotros started our ain farm. In 2012, the ban on the importation of Wagyu was lifted. Even so, even more farms in the United States are offering total-claret Wagyu also as crossbred Wagyu."(Photograph: Flickr/Tavallai)


Myth: Wagyu is too fatty.

fatty
The facts:
 Wagyu has a especially rich oral cavity feel because of the marbling of the fat—non because it has an overall higher proportion of fat than American beef. Wagyu cattle are genetically predisposed to have high levels of unsaturated fats. The fat is evenly dispersed throughout the beef and melts at a depression temperature, which gives the steak a buttery texture.

Mina says: "The problem is that people in the U.S. are used to eating besides large a portion of steak. If you offered me four ounces of Wagyu over 16 ounces of Angus Ribeye, I'd cull the Wagyu. And I think that'southward kind of the overall theory in Japan: super high-quality, and not in excess. It's also almost how y'all handle information technology, how yous cook it. What you'll find is that when it's done tataki manner—when information technology'southward just seared, newspaper sparse—the fattiness melts on the pinnacle of your mouth. I likewise like it prepared as shabu shabu; the meat is cooked a little closer to medium and some of the fat releases." (Photo: Flickr/Cognoscenti)


Myth: Domestic Wagyu is the same thing.

domestic
The facts:
American farmers imported the first Wagyu cattle from Japan in the 1970s. A few farms maintained pure bloodlines, while many accept crossbred the Wagyu with American cattle. To exist termed "Wagyu," the U.S. Department of Agriculture requires that the moo-cow be at least 50 percent Wagyu and remain in the feedlot for a minimum of 350 days.

Moran says: "When we opened, we decided to start our ain farm where nosotros crossbred American Blackness Angus and Japanese Black Wagyu. We brought the feeding specialists from Nihon to gear up upwardly this subcontract, and our cattle are raised exactly how they would exist in Nippon. We believe the principal difference in our domestic Kobe-style beef, or Washugyu every bit nosotros call it (Wa = Japan, shu = American, gyu = beefiness), is how the animals are raised and what they are raised on. We raise our cattle for 27-31 months, which is a bit longer than most U.South. cattle farms. We too first our cattle on rice stalks and dry rice for the get-go several months of the animal's life to strengthen the tum, which makes the animal able to accept in more nutrients. In that location are considerable differences in marbling, texture, and flavor between A5 Wagyu and Washugyu, but both are excellent."

Chin says: "Domestic Wagyu and Japanese Wagyu are completely different in terms of taste and texture, but we love domestic Wagyu. Is it the same? No, it's non the aforementioned. At that place is a lot more than meatiness to the American Wagyu. There is not every bit much fat marbled throughout the meat, but it'south pretty close. Gustatory modality-wise, it'due south a piffling unlike because of the feed. Just domestic Wagyu isn't too shabby."(Photo: Flickr/GanMed64)


The Myth: A5 Wagyu is the tastiest.

a5
The facts:
Wagyu is graded past yield and quality. "A" is the highest yield grade, or how much beefiness is obtained from the cattle; "5" is the highest quality course, and means the beefiness has the all-time marbling, coloration, texture, and quality of fatty.

Mentum says: "A5 is the highest form y'all can become. Wagyu is also graded on the Beef Model Score, which is rated from iii-12. So if you lot have A5 level 12, that's a serious amount of fat in there."

Mina says: "Tastiest? It depends on who's eating it. Less than A5 tin exist just as good, merely non as fat."

Moran says: "A5 Wagyu is extremely rich; it's buttery and most nutty in flavour, and it melts in your mouth. You tin but press the meat on the roof of your oral fissure with your tongue and it melts. I recommend that people go with a smaller portion considering it's so rich. We carry A5 Wagyu from Miyazaki. Every v years in Nippon, there are beef Olympics. Miyazaki Wagyu has won the past two competitions." (Photo: Flickr/Kent Wang)


The Myth: Kobe-beef sliders are made from existent Kobe.

slider
The facts:
Wagyu sliders never take real Japanese Wagyu. #Staywoke

Moran says: "The last time I checked, there are only effectually iii,400 cows in Kobe. And then if you see anyone offering 'Kobe sliders,' unless in that location are effectually $100 a burger, I highly doubt the beef is actually from Kobe." (Photograph: Flickr/G M)